How to Plant Big Blue Lilyturf for a Thriving Groundcover

"When should I plant Big Blue Lilyturf?" is the question customers ask us most. Plant it in spring or fall, and set it level with the soil, never deeper. Do that and it settles in fast. Do it wrong and the crown rots.

This article talks about planting Big Blue and answers the questions customers ask us most. Read on to learn the best season, site and soil, the five planting steps, how far apart to space clumps, and what the first three years look like. Big Blue is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 10 and forms a tidy clump of dark green, arching leaves topped with violet-purple spikes. Plant it once, plant it right, and mostly leave it alone.

Choose the Season and Site for Big Blue

The best time to plant Big Blue Lilyturf is in spring or fall, when temperatures are moderate and the soil is moist without being waterlogged. Avoid planting during peak summer heat, as young plants need consistent moisture to settle in, and high temperatures stress newly installed stock.

Spring planting, roughly March through May in most zones, gives your plants a full growing season to establish roots before winter. Fall planting, typically September through November, works equally well if your region does not experience hard freezes immediately after planting. In zones 5 and 6, where Big Blue Lilyturf is more likely to die back or brown in winter, spring planting provides a safer margin.

Plenty of guides call lilyturf bulletproof and say to plant it any time. We don't follow that advice. In our rows, summer-planted clumps need daily water and still sulk, while spring and fall plantings just grow.

If you are purchasing container-grown plants, you can find nursery stock in quart, #1, or #3 containers. A quart container holds a small but viable clump, while #1 and #3 containers offer more established plants that fill in faster.

Light and Soil Preferences

Big Blue Lilyturf thrives in part shade, though it tolerates full sun to full shade. For the best foliage color and density, choose a location with part shade, especially in hotter regions. The plant is highly adaptable to soil type and will grow in average, well-drained soil and even tolerates clay. This adaptability makes it valuable for challenging spots where other groundcovers fail.

Before planting, test or observe your soil drainage. If water pools after rain, amend the area with 2 to 3 inches of compost worked into the top 6 inches of soil. Big Blue accepts acid or neutral soil, so pH rarely needs fixing. It does need moist, well-drained soil and will not tolerate wet feet. Our soil guide covers drainage in more depth.

Clearing and Spacing the Bed

Clear the planting area of weeds and grass. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart for mass plantings and borders. Tighter spacing (12 inches) creates a denser look faster, while 18 inches gives individual clumps room to spread gradually and will take longer to fill in.

Plant Big Blue Step by Step

What You Need

• Big Blue Lilyturf plants (container-grown, quart to #3 size)
• Compost or aged bark mulch (optional but helpful)
• Shovel or spade
• Garden gloves
• Watering can or soaker hose
• Compost for amending soil if your site drains poorly
• Measuring tape or ruler (to ensure proper spacing)
• Mulch for top-dressing after planting (2 to 3 inches)

Step 1: Prepare the Planting Hole

Dig a hole slightly wider and no deeper than the root ball of your container plant. A hole that is too deep can trap moisture around the crown and lead to rot. The goal is to plant at the same depth the plant was growing in its container, with the top of the root ball level with the soil surface.

Step 2: Loosen the Root Ball

Gently remove the plant from its container. If the roots are tightly wound or the soil is compacted, use your fingers or a small hand tool to tease apart the outer roots. This encourages them to branch outward into the surrounding soil rather than remaining in a tight ball. Do not be aggressive. You want to separate matted roots without tearing healthy ones.

Step 3: Position and Backfill

Set the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the ground. Backfill halfway with native soil, gently firm it around the base, and water lightly to settle the soil and remove air pockets. Then finish filling the hole with soil and firm gently again. Avoid pressing too hard, which can compact the soil and reduce root growth.

Step 4: Water Thoroughly

Water each newly planted clump deeply. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged. In spring, natural rainfall often provides enough moisture, but if you are planting in a dry spell, water twice a week for the first 2 to 3 weeks. In fall, water every 3 to 4 days if rain is scarce, reducing frequency as cooler weather arrives.

Step 5: Apply Mulch

Spread 2 to 3 inches of aged bark mulch or compost around each plant, keeping it a few inches back from the crown to prevent rot. Mulch moderates soil temperature, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds as your groundcover is becoming established.

What Big Blue Does in Years One to Three

Big Blue has a medium growth rate, forming a clump that widens a little each year. It often blooms in its first full growing season, with violet-purple spikes arriving in late summer into autumn. A mature clump reaches its full size of 12 to 18 inches in height and width within about 2 to 3 years.

In the first growing season, newly planted Big Blue focuses energy on root establishment. You will see modest foliage growth and possibly flowers in late summer or autumn. The plant may look small next to its surrounding space, which is normal.

One of the most common questions we get is why a new planting looks thin. It is year one. Give it time and don't be tempted to add more plants.

Establish a consistent watering routine. Big Blue Lilyturf is drought tolerant once established, which takes roughly 1 full growing season. Until then, keep the soil moderately moist. After the first year, reduce frequency significantly and rely mainly on rainfall.

For a full schedule, see our guide to watering Big Blue from new roots to established.

By year 2, the clumps expand noticeably, and fill-in becomes visible, especially at 12-inch spacing. The foliage remains evergreen year-round in zones 7 through 10, while in zones 5 and 6, the leaves may bronze or brown during harsh winters but typically return green in spring.

If you space plants 12 inches apart, expect noticeable fill-in within 2 years and dense coverage by year 3. At 18-inch spacing, complete coverage may take 4 to 5 years, but mature plants still provide effective erosion control and visual interest even during the fill-in period.

Our spacing guide covers borders, edging and mass planting in more detail.

By year 3, clumps reach mature width and height (12 to 18 inches), and a mass planting looks established and cohesive. The dense cover suppresses weeds and needs little pruning. Big Blue is also deer and rabbit resistant, so browsing is rarely a problem.

Account for mature size. Remember that each clump will reach 12 to 18 inches tall and wide at maturity. Do not plant them so close to pathways or other plants that they outgrow their space. That same clump size decides what pot size works for container plantings.

For detailed care information after planting, see the Big Blue Lilyturf care guide on sun, soil, water, and ongoing maintenance.

Common Planting Mistakes to Avoid

We often see the same few errors at the nursery. Each one is easy to avoid.

Planting in midsummer heat. Young plants stress in high temperatures and may wilt or fail to establish. Stick to spring and fall.

Planting too deep. Even an inch too deep can cause crown rot, especially in clay soil or during wet seasons. Plant level with the root ball top.

Overwatering. Big Blue Lilyturf tolerates dry spells once established. Soggy soil promotes root and crown rot. Water when the top inch of soil is dry, not every day.

Using poor-draining soil without amendment. If your site holds water, add compost or other organic matter to improve drainage. The plant tolerates clay but not standing water.

Spacing too far apart with unrealistic expectations. At 18-inch spacing, mature clumps do not touch for several years. If you need faster coverage, use 12-inch spacing or choose a smaller number of plants positioned to fill your design.

Quick Reference: Big Blue Lilyturf Planting Checklist

Use this table as a quick check before you dig.

Task	Timing or Detail
Best planting season	Spring or fall, not peak summer heat
USDA hardiness zones	5-10 (evergreen in zones 7-10, may brown in zones 5-6)
Mature plant size	12-18 in. tall and wide per clump
Spacing for mass plantings	12-18 in. apart (12 in. for faster fill, 18 in. for gradual spread)
Expected coverage timeline	Visible fill-in by year 2, full coverage by year 3 (12 in. spacing)
Light requirements	Full sun to full shade, best color and density in part shade
Soil type	Average, well-drained, tolerates clay
Soil pH	Acid to neutral
Initial water needs	Moderate moisture for first growing season, drought tolerant after year 1
Planting depth	Level with root ball top, not deeper
Mulch layer	2-3 in., kept a few inches back from crown
First bloom time	Often late summer into autumn of the first full season
Bloom color	Violet-purple spikes
Time to full maturity	2-3 years from planting

Plant Big Blue Once and Let It Fill In

Pick spring or fall, set the root ball level with the soil, mulch back from the crown, and water through the first season. After that, Big Blue asks very little and rewards you with an evergreen carpet and violet-purple spikes.

Our growers watch Big Blue through the year for winter bronzing in colder zones, slug nibbles on tender spring growth, and crown rot after wet spells. We are a small business with our own farms, and we grow and sell top-quality plants like this one.